Easy Rider

Hue, Vietnam - Best Day Ever

After yet another long overnight (14 hrs) train trip we arrived in Hue. Once the capital of southern Vietnam.  A quick breakfast and we were treated to the most fabulous experience of seeing all the sights of Hue by motor bike.  At first I hung on to my driver with both arms around him in the heimlick position. Never know if a chicken bone could fly into his mouth. It soon went to "look ma no hands" with my camera in one hand shooting pictures as we flew through the little alleys and trails which wind around Hue like a maze.  I could not wipe the grin from my face.

 

Mystical Halong Bay

After another overnight train journey we journey by bus to our next destination Halong Bay. On the way we enjoyed the interesting sights out the window. Lots of bicycle and motorcycles carrying up to four people and various cargo. From freezers to a crate full of pigs. That gives the tale of this little piggy going to market a whole new spin.

It was touch and go whether we were going to get to go out on the boat for our overnight stay as it was pretty misty out but at the last second the captain gave the go ahead.

Halong Bay is a Unesco Heritage sight and one of the top world wonders.  It is made up of over 2,000 islands spectacularly rising from an emerald green sea. Halong means where the dragon descends from the sea. Legend has it that as the islands were formed when a dragon dove into the sea leaving all the islands in his wake. Sailors to this day report sightings of part of the beast.

 

We also went onto one of the islands and into a gigantic cave full of stalactites and stagagmites. Setting fit for a James Bond film. Then back out to more breathtaking views.

Back to the boat where the meals were just unbelievable. Lots of fresh seafood presented as beautifully as the scenery.  The crew must work around the clock.

We then went through some tunnels leading to a secluded bay. I was excited as they used this part of Halong Bay for the film Indochine I had watched which inspired me to travel to Vietnam.

Once through the tunnels we saw quite a few monkeys climbing on the rocks and swinging on the vines much to the delight of our group.

 

Halong Bay was everything I imagined it to be. Pure Magic.

 

 

 

Among the H'mong Trek

Had a great two day trek among the H'mong. We were greeted at the door of our hotel by about 12 women from the H'mong tribe. Really strange they followed us through the whole 5/6 hour trek  with baskets of their jewellery and various embroidery with the hope of selling us some at the end of the trek.  They were very nice and always asking "Where you from" What your name" "Shopping????". On the way up on the tough up hill climbs the woman that was following me held my hand to help me. Her hand felt like a crab claw.  No hand cream. Their clothing is very colourful and all hand embroidered. They say that girls are taught to embroider before they can walk.

The scenery on the trek was spectacular. Cascading rice paddies.

We visited a home with a water buffalo guarding the home. Great security but stinking just as we passed it decided to relief itself.

We also visited a school and really enjoyed watching the kids. Simon brought some pencils the kids swarmed him.

We were lucky we had a brilliant sunny day and had lots of breaks to look at the scenery.

Finally at last to our homestay.  It was a really interesting experience. The food was delicious and the hospitality next to none. There was a large varanda with a great view and bird cages hanging all around it. In the evening at supper the mom and dad kept on making toasts with shots of rice wine. Mot Hai Bai Yo (One Two Three, Vietnamese cheer was shouted numerous times and everyone had a great time.   Dorothy and I got a couple of beds on the main floor and in the morning it sounded like the rooster, pig and dog were right in the room with us. 

Then the trek back. Yikes. A lot of uphill. I found a H'mong woman  (who of course was waiting for us to depart ) with soft hands this time.  She was such a help and made the trek a lot of fun. I was leaping from rock to rock like a leprocan. (Yes I know I can't spell) 

Back to Sapa, then bus and overnight train to Hanoi enroute to Halong Bay. 

Sapa

The overnight train trip went well.  4 bunks to a room and Emily and I shared the Swiss girls.  Simon (from England) walked by and said let's go to the bar and whatever Simon says we do. Emily hates beer but being a good sport is trying. But after a few sips she's done and being a good room mate she says I can have it. Oh well.

Train part of journey's done, then on a bus and we arrive in Sapa. The country side is beautiful.

We're lucky we are having a beautiful day.   But it's funny all of a sudden the mist and the clouds roll in but as quickly as it envelops us it is gone. When we arrived at our hotel it has windows all along the back of it which was suppose to be a good view. All we saw was clouds. Then within seconds the cloud lifted revealing yes a stunning view.

The town of Sapa is lovely with a pretty little lake.

After exploring the town in the morning the group went by bus to a a nearby local village where we were swarmed like rock stars by the village women. Crazy but they were very nice and followed us about practicing their English which was amazingly good.

Many of the women carried their babies on their back probably from dawn to dusk trying to sell jewellery and handicrafts to visitors.  Babies take it in stride and seem very content all bundled up and warm on their mother's back. The women seemed bundled up too but most of their feet are bare and are in plastic sandals.

Tomorrow a 5/6 hr trek to another village and a homestay sleep. Should be interesting.

 

Happening Hanoi

Long journey from the Red River Winnipeg to the Red River, Hanoi but so worth it.  Transport from the airport went smoothly, took an old bus shuttle to the centre of town. Only two dollars. I don't think the bus driver could have packed us in more. Landed at 9:30 Pm so it was dark and there was a heavy mist on Hanoi.  From the bus you could see all these tiny little bars tucked in the alley ways all lit up in colourful lights glowing through the mist with the locals having a bia hoi (fresh beer) after a long days at work. Soon I would be joining them. Didn't take long to get to my hotel the Asian Ruby, for 4 dollars more the bus driver dropped me off within 2 blocks of my hotel. Rolled my suitcase down the narrow still bustling streets and ta da there it was and probably took 5 minutes to check in, drop the suitcase off and back out on the streets to have my own bia hoi at the Green Pepper across the street.  Bia hoi is a tasty local draft beer brewed daily and is to be drunk that day. Very good and it's only about 75 cents.

The Green Pepper turned out to be a favourite spot of mine while in Hanoi meeting lots of fellow travellers there. It's one of the things I love about travelling is the ease of just talking to whoever is sitting next to you and sharing stories of their travels.

Next morning, could hardly wait to get out there to explore. "This is the Asia dreamed of from afar. "(Lonely Planet)  The streets/alleys is a bustle of activity. The street vendors are in full swing. Women in their conical hats and baskets are all on a mission to get to their destinations. There are a zillion motorcycles and scooters zooming in between the pedestrian traffic with the ease of a buzzing bees. Wow.

 

 

 

 The street scene is amazing. Everything is done here, from preparing their food, selling their food and even washing the dishes.

I make my way through the madness to Hoan Kiem Lake just a short walk from the hotel. In the middle of kaos is peace.  It's just a beautiful little lake with a  pretty park walk way around it.  Folk lore has it that Heaven sent a magical sword to the local hero at the time to help fight the Chinese out of Vietnam. Once that was done a giant turtle reached out of the lake and grabbed the sword never to be seen again.  Apparently there still is a turtle or two living in the lake, no sword to be found.

It was a drizzling day so I meandered through the streets, went to a couple of interesting museums including the famed Hanoi Prison. First built by the French during the French colonization era to imprison Vietnamese uprising political prisoners to the Vietnam War  for American pilots shot down near Hanoi.(In Vietnam it's called the American War) One of the famous inmates here was Senator John McCain.

Next day, I met my GAdventure Group. I'm the only Canadian. (Boo, no one to share in the excitement of winning gold in hockey) We're an international mix. English, Swiss and German. All ages too. My room mate is young Emily from England. It's a good group with a few who like the sauce and I don't mean the fish sauce.  Food by the way here in Vietnam is delicious and cheap.  The people of very very friendly and helpful.

We went to see the water puppet show which was interesting. It is only done here.  The puppets are dancing on water maneouvered by ropes and cables.

Hanoi has few traffic lights and for the most part the only way to cross the street is to cross a few steps at a time and hope a car or motorcycle doen't hit you. Mostly you wait for a local to cross and siddle up to them and hope they get hit first.  Nuts.

After the another day of exploring Hanoi we are taking the night train to Sapa.